When I started formulating skincare, I thought I'd learn about oils, plants, maybe a little chemistry refresher...
I didn't expect to fall down rabbit holes about hydrosols, preservatives, fatty acid profiles, emulsifiers and why rancid oils smell exactly like old crayons.
(You're welcome.)
Here are a few of my favorite "Wait...WHAT?!" discoveries from my journey.
🌿 Natural vs. Pure vs. Clean
This is probably one of the most misunderstood topics in skincare.
This may or may not be shocking:
There is no official definition of "natural," "pure," or "clean"—not in skincare, and not even in food.
For High Tea, "natural" means ingredients that are:
- naturally occurring
- naturally derived
- or nature-identical when necessary
Some ingredients are beautifully simple. Crush a seed, press it, filter it...hello sunflower oil.
Others require fermentation, extraction, distillation, or purification before they're useful in skincare.
Some ingredients, like certain forms of Vitamins C and E, are made in a lab but are chemically identical to their naturally occurring counterparts. These are often more sustainable, more consistent, or help protect endangered natural resources. Some are acceptable in natural skincare formulation per COSMOS or EcoCert — international organizations that are widely accepted for guidance for natural and organic formulators.
For me, natural is about thoughtful sourcing, honoring what nature provides, safety, sustainability and performance.
Our Philosophy in Three Words
Every High Tea formula is designed to do three things:
Hydrate
Restore moisture and help skin stay plump and radiant.
Nourish
Support collagen, elastin, and healthy cell function.
Protect
Strengthen the skin barrier so everything else can do its job.
That's it.
Simple philosophy.
Thoughtfully executed.
Hydrosols Are Liquid Gold
One of my favorite discoveries.
When essential oils are distilled, there's another beautiful ingredient left behind...
Hydrosol.
It's not rose petals soaking in water.
It's the aromatic water produced during steam distillation, containing water-soluble plant compounds that essential oils don't.
Hydrosols are gentle, luxurious, naturally fragrant, and often much kinder to sensitive skin than essential oils.
I'm obsessed.
Carrier Oils Are the Real Heroes
Carrier oils make up the heart of many skincare formulas.
Camellia. Jojoba. Tamanu. Blueberry seed. Prickly pear.
Each has its own unique fatty acid profile, antioxidant content and skin-loving personality.
I've purchased enough oils to fill a small warehouse.
Worth it.
Tropical Oils Are Incredible
Here's something cool.
Many tropical oils naturally protect the proteins that give our skin its structure from UV-related damage.
Think:
- Shea butter
- Tamanu oil
- Coconut
- Buah Merah oil
It makes perfect sense.
Plants growing under intense tropical sun evolved ways to protect themselves—and those same compounds can benefit our skin.
Nature is pretty brilliant.
Not All Alcohols Are Drying
This one surprises almost everyone.
When people hear "alcohol" on an ingredient list, they panic.
But fatty alcohols like:
- Cetyl Alcohol
- Stearyl Alcohol
- Cetearyl Alcohol
- Behenyl Alcohol
...are actually moisturizing.
They're waxy, plant-derived ingredients that improve texture, stabilize emulsions and leave skin feeling soft.
Completely different from drying alcohols like ethanol or isopropyl alcohol.
Fragrance Isn't Always What You Think
Many allergic reactions in skincare happen because of fragrance or essential oils.
The tricky part?
The word "Fragrance" (or "Parfum") can legally represent a proprietary blend rather than listing every component individually.
Sometimes that's perfectly harmless.
Sometimes it makes transparency difficult.
That's one reason I prefer to formulate with botanical ingredients whenever possible and keep High Tea ingredient lists open and honest. No "fragrance." No secrets.
Waterless Products Don't Always Need Preservatives
This one surprised me.
Microbes need water to grow.
So anhydrous (water-free) products—like facial oils, balms, and many body butters—often don't require traditional preservatives.
Instead, antioxidants like Vitamin E help keep the oils fresh.
The catch?
Once water gets introduced into the jar, everything changes.
That's why packaging and how you use and treat the product matter.
Preservatives Aren't the Villain
If you've heard "all preservatives are toxic"...
Nope.
Preservatives protect products from bacteria, mold and yeast.
Without them, contaminated skincare can cause serious infections.
Like everything in formulation, it's about choosing the right preservative, at the right level, for the right formula.
Three Beauty Myths That Need to Retire
❌ "60% of what you put on your skin absorbs into your body."
There's no scientific basis for this number.
Absorption depends on the ingredient, molecule size, concentration, your skin barrier, where it's applied and many other variables.
Some ingredients barely penetrate at all. Others do. There is no universal percentage.
❌ "Chemical-Free"
Everything is made of chemicals.
Water is a chemical. Air is chemicals. Plants are chemicals.
The phrase simply isn't scientifically meaningful.
❌ Natural Always Beats Synthetic
This one's more nuanced.
Many natural ingredients are incredible. Some are irritating or toxic. Some synthetic ingredients are exceptionally safe. Others aren't.
For me, natural formulation isn't about fear. It's about making thoughtful, informed choices and going back to basics, even if it's not all that basic.
Where High Tea Draws the Line
High Tea follows the ingredient standards established by COSMOS and EcoCert, two of the world's most respected natural cosmetics certification organizations.
That means you'll often hear me say naturally derived rather than simply natural—because accuracy matters.
Our goal has never been to chase marketing buzzwords. It's to formulate beautiful products with integrity.
The Tea (TL;DR)
Here's what I've learned after years of formulating skincare:
✔ Skin wants hydration, nourishment, and protection.
✔ Simpler explanations are usually better than scary marketing.
✔ Nature is astonishingly clever.
✔ Science isn't the enemy—it's how we understand nature better.
✔ Rancid oils smell exactly like old crayons.
Once you smell it...
...you'll never forget it.
Want to experience skincare built around hydration, nourishment and protection?
Explore the High Tea collection and discover what thoughtful natural formulation feels like.